The Nanny Diaries, Part 2

Well, honestly, the odd behavior started earlier.

Brent's mother, Carol, arrived here the Tuesday before Easter. The day was incredibly chaotic for many reasons. And, to make a long story quite short, my engagement ring "went missing" (as they call it here). I noticed that I wasn't wearing it for much of Tuesday, but I didn't think anything of it. Not until Wednesday when I returned from Chloe's playgroup in the AM did I really set to look for it. And it just didn't appear. The whole house was turned upside down, with the exception of the master bedroom.

Stella had been in between apartments so she had been staying in our guest room quite often. But the week Carol arrived, Stella was here and then she wasn't and her plans kept changing -- one minute she'd say she was staying the night, and the next, she was headed out the door. I didn't think much of it at the time.

You get lots of warnings around here about staff stealing things. Sometimes it's small things like toys or underwear...yes, underwear! Other times it's serious, like passports and large stashes of cash. But we had never had any problem at all with Stella. Nothing. The fact that my ring was missing caused great confusion in me because I honestly couldn't imagine Stella taking it. But what other explanation was there? And believe me, I created so many explanations in my head that it was going to explode. People all told me I was crazy, that OF COURSE Stella took it...it didn't just walk away! And Stella is the only household help I have, so she's the only one implicated. Still I had a very hard time imagining her doing it.

She played innocent. We never accused her. We just looked and looked and involved her in the process. She left the house on Wednesday night to visit friends, and I really thought that Thursday morning, I would have my ring back. We thought that maybe she had gone out to retrieve the ring from wherever it was. But no, Thursday AM, the ring wasns't anywhere.

Finally, I made up a story that I had to report the ring loss to the police because we would have to file an insurance claim in the States and they would require the police report. In addition, because of the value of the ring, the US Embassy would have to conduct an investigation, and since Stella worked in the house, they would have to get information from her. I told Stella that it would be much "nicer" if I got the information from her instead of the Embassy because they wouldn't necessarily treat her well. So, I got the names and phone numbers of everyone she had spoken to on her cell -- dialed and received calls -- in the last 48 hours. I got the contact info for her landlord, her last several employers, etc. etc. She was very very nervous, but still played innocent. I felt awful. But I never once accused her.

I left that morning to do errands and such, and stop at the police station to make my report. A couple of hours had passed and my next stop would be the Cantonmnets Police Station. But my phone rang. It was Carol. The ring had been found! Where? Exactly where EVERYONE had told me the ring would show up. Under our bed! (Apparently, I'm not the only one who has experienced "missing" jewelry) But at that point in time, our "bed" was simply a king-sized mattress on the floor. The mattress is insanely heavy, so how would the ring get there? Not to mention that my last recollection of having the ring was in the kitchen cooking, and taking it off because I was getting my hands really gross with fish and stuff.

Intense relief. Incredible disbelief.

That weekend, Stella was supposed to accompany us to the beach for the holiday weekend. Thursday afternoon, she bowed out. Good Friday is a Ghanaian holiday, so we didn't see her again until we returned from the Coast. I really didn't even know if we would see her again, but she had left many things at the house, so I thought we probably would.

The following week, Stella wasn't herself. Just dragging. Napping. Being very quiet. I thought that maybe she was feeling a bit depressed about the whole ring thing. Knowing that even though she had never been accused, she was under question. Even though the ring was recovered, and even though there was no proof that Stella had actually done anything, she knew that the trust had been shaken. Anyway, so I didn't think too much about it. One night, she came downstairs at about 9:30PM while we were all in the living room, and she was clearly crying. She made up some story about her uncle and asked to use my phone as her phone was out of "units". When I followed up with her about her uncle days later, she dismissed the whole thing.

When the next week, she was still dragging through her day and spending a great part of the day sleeping on the kitchen floor, I insisted that she go to the Dr. The thought had crossed my mind that perhaps she was pregnant, but as I had asked her why she didn't move in with her boyfriend, Carlos, her answer was that if she moved in with him he would never marry her, and since she's so very "CHRISTIAN", I dismissed the idea.

So, off to the 37th Military Hospital we went. Thinking that Stella could pick up the health insurance card we had gotten for her in January and just walk into the clinic...

The Nanny Diaries, Part 1

When it comes to staff, we were incredibly fortunate! And as crazy as it sounds, you really do HAVE to have staff here. It's not a luxury, it's a necessity. And that's not crazy expat logic. Daily life here is such that no matter how modest the house, if you want to have any modern, developed-world conveniences you absolutely have to have help in order to actually enjoy them. Hell, forget about modern conveniences...if you want to eat fresh fruits and vegetables you at least need to have a cook...otherwise it will take you ALL DAY to prepare one single meal.

We decided early on that we needed and wanted a driver. We found ours by taking local taxis during the first month we were here (January). We happened upon this really nice guy named Ben, who owned his taxi, was actually literate, had a real driver's license, spoke reasonably good English AND stopped for pedestrians. These are all unusual characteristics for a driver (yes, even he driver's license!!). After almost a month of part-time driving, we offered him a job as our driver once our car came. Actually, he brought it up to us, but we never in million years thought he'd take the job because from his hourly rate to drive us around in his taxi he could often make in one 10-hour day what he would make in an entire 5-day week of 11-hour days driving us in our car! As he'd never been a private driver he didn't really have an idea of what the pay was. We let him know, we pointed out the vast income difference (assuming he could actually get an obruni to pay him hourly with any degree of regulariy) and told him to think about it. We were thrilled when he accepted, and equally happy to have one staffing problem solved!

Household help was another issue. One of the reasons we chose to live in Orchid Gardens, or the Melrose Place of Accra, was because it came complete with security guards, maintenance staff, gardeners, pool boys, etc., thereby greatly reducing the number of people we would have to directly employ -- never mind source! So, that left us with the decision of housekeeper vs. nanny vs. cook...or some combination. Ideally, we'd get an all in one, but knowing that wasn't likely, we decided to go for a housekeeper/nanny. What we found was a housekeeper/nanny who wants to cook (but of course can only cook Ghanaian, which has limited appeal...but she is an avid learner of all things culinary). Stella came to us by way of Brent's boss's wife, Jackie -- who is somehow incredibly tapped in to absolutely everything and everybody here in Accra. Stella was working, temporarily, for a friend of Jackie's while the friend was "in between" nannies. The permanent nanny was starting and Stella was in search of a new "home". She was the first person I met, and she seemed fine. The culture here is so different from that at home that I knew that interviews weren't going to be very useful for me and that the only way to know was to try a nanny out. Luckily, we were in a hotel and I only wanted someone a couple of hours a day so I could get some things done--built in nanny testing period. So, I essentially hired her on the spot.

And then, I had to go get her tested...tested for TB, AIDS, Hepatitus ABC, etc. etc. Just hearing from people what it would be like to do this at the "local" clinic was enough to make my head spin! You don't just go to the Dr. and get tests done. You go to the Dr. and pay the consult fee (before you are even seen). During the visit he/she will "prescribe" all the tests you need. Then off you go with your test Rx to the lab. At which point, you have to cough up even more money before they draw your blood, etc. And then you're off to the imaging center where you pay yet again for the chest x-rays. And then you have to go and collect all your results and then carry them back to the Dr. And someone who has never been to the Dr in their life, never mind had all these tests done, was supposed to be able to navigate this system? NO WAY. So, we had Stella go to a private clinic -- only to find out that it was the same system there. Except it was faster, and more expensive. But at least it was all in the same building! Stella's results were all normal.

I thought it would be a good idea if we were to get Stella and Ben this "National Health Insurance Scheme" that had been publicized. It is basically free health insurance...only it cost 230,000 cedis/year (about US $25). The idea is that once you are registered, you can go to the hospital or clinic and see Drs and not have to pay. I was surprised that neither Stella nor Ben had any interest. They thought I was crazy! They told me that they never got sick. But I also know that here, people don't go to the Dr because they can't afford it. I wasn't going to MAKE Ben do it, but I did insist that Stella register for it (at our expense, of course) since she would be in the house, in close contact with Chloe and helping in meal preparation, etc. I didn't want her to be afraid of going to the clinic to get medical attention because she wouldn't be able to afford it!

Stella was registered on the 23rd of January at the 37th Military Hospital. They said it might be until March when she gets her card. I was flabbergasted. Neither Stella nor Ben seemed at all phased by this ridiculously lengthy waiting period. I was told that we would be called when the card was ready. Brent and I left for the States at the end of February. No call was received. We returned at the end of March. Still, no call was received. Carol, Brent's mom, came and went, and still, no call was received. And then Stella started behaving oddly...

Insurance for the Insurance!!

Who knew we'd need so much insurance?

We have United Healthcare -- that covers us in the States, and technically, we can submit our medical bills from Ghana to them for 80% reimbursement. However, seeing the types of receipts we get here, it's unlikely that any US health insurance will accept them!

We have International SOS -- this is for medical evacuation in the event that we can't be treated here in Ghana...and basically, even though we are in the capital city of Accra, the likelihood that we could be adequately treated in the case of any real emergency is pretty slim.

So, as of today, we also have the services of WARA (West African Rescue Association). If you come visit, you too, can have there services (they'll charge you for a month, but at $50/month/family...not such a bad deal). What does WARA do? Well, they essentially take the place of all medical emergency services that would normally be provided by local ambulances and emergency rooms. They are a German company and provide German-trained paramedics and German-built ambulances and imported first aid equipment and supplies. And you can only register for their services if you are already insured by someone else!

The key is to bypass, at all costs, the emergency room of even the best hospitals here in Accra (Korle-Bu Teaching Hospital and 37th Military Hospital, in case you were curious). The state of medical treatement in Ghana is a sorry one. Payment comes first -- ALWAYS. Yes, even if you are bleeding to death, or otherwise on your deathbed. So, the paperwork must be completed, your cash must be handed over -- what??? you mean you weren't carrying 5 million cedis (approx. US $550) on you at the time of your unfortunate accident? What a shame! Perhaps you can call someone to go to the bank and get the money for you? Oh, it's after banking hours? That's OK, they can go to the ATM that will allow withdrawals of up to 600,000 cedis each with a max of 4 a day. Oh, wait, that won't cover your bill? I guess you'll just have to bleed to death! Or, call several people who will all be willing to withdraw their own cash for you...

Anyway, so WARA has accounts at all the main hospitals and clinics, so that if you show up in their ambulance with their paramedics, you won't have to deal with that bullshit--the hospital/clinic just gets their money directly from WARA. But the best part is that the WARA paramedics will stabilize you and basically get you prepped to see whatever specialist you need...and they have relationships with all the "best" health providers in the country...and yes, there are some good ones!

If you're out in the boonies of Ghana, they will come get you by helicopter or a "fixed wing". If you need to be med-evaced out of the country, they will work with your insurance provider (International SOS for us) to deal with all that. And, they will bill your insurance provider directly for their services. I was actually in their offices today, getting information and registering when they were mobilizing the helicopter to go get someone that had been in a mining accident. It was terrific to see how quickly they could get their shit together. It was horrifying to learn that the slowdown was actually the local doctor in the boonies who was taking care of the patient..."paperwork" would have to be done before they would release the patient to WARA!!

If you don't have an emergency, but you're feeling ill...they have a 24-hour nurse's line AND they will recommend the appropriate Dr. for you AND facilitate the appointment or house call!!

So, let's say you're driving down the Cape Coast Road for a beach weekend. Your driver is at the wheel and you get sideswiped by a tro-tro (local means of transport) and fall off the side of the road and you are all injured. Someone calls WARA (there are decals all over your car telling them to do so) and the ambulance or helicopter comes to your rescue...what happens to your driver? Is he just left by the side of the road since he isn't technically covered by WARA? Well, their answer is that their paramedics won't just leave them there without any attention. Their paramedics will do what they can there at the scene, but essentially, the driver will not be put on a WARA ambulance or helicopter or fixed wing. WARA will, however, call the local ambulance company to the scene--which sounds lovely, but I'm sure you can imagine how this plays out. I wonder if the local paramedics demand payment before hoisting you up into their ambulance???

WARA realizes that this is a sensitive issue. So, what they are doing, as far as community outreach goes, is training local paramedics and emergency room staff at the local hospitals. I guess with any luck, a local ambulance will come to your driver's rescue carrying WARA-trained paramedics!

Raindrops keep falling on my head...

Actually, we've been extraordinarily lucky and the raindrops have patiently waited until we, and our belongings, are tucked away safely into our air-conditioned lair!

Since our arrival in January, we've heard STORIES about rainy season. Since our arrival, we've kept hearing "soon, the rains will come"...but never a definitive answer as to when "soon" would be. I'm not 100% certain that rainy season is actually here, but it IS raining RIGHT NOW! And, it did rain last night. And, it rained the first Monday we were back in Accra after a couple of weeks in the States in March. And, it also rained the day I took the picture to the left.
(This picture was taken standing on the balcony of our bedroom. The buildings you see are the other houses in Orchid Gardens.)

The best thing about these rains, is that their timing is perfect.

That Monday in March? Well, that was the day our long-awaited container was delivered. You could feel the moisture in the air. You could see the clouds heavy with water. But it hadn't yet rained, after all those months of warnings. Even on days that it looked and felt like it would rain, it didn't. It may have rained elsewhere. I know it rained as close as a mile away. But here, in the Melrose Place of Accra, Orchid Gardens? Nope, not a drop! When the last of the boxes were put in their respective rooms, the delivery men dashed (tipped), and the back of the truck closed up, the heavens opened and there was a bonafide downpour! Our neighbors weren't so lucky...their container delivery pulled into the driveway at that exact moment! It rained for hours! And, their truck waited for hours!

Today, Brent's piano was being delivered. Seriously. A piano. In Ghana. Needless to say, they don't exactly have piano moving specialists here. I so wish that I had gotten pictures of this, but the poor men were all about to have a heart attack and a thoughtless obruni getting her photo-op might just have sent them over the edge. The piano technician, from whom Brent had purchased the piano, the "piano mover", our driver, one of the "compound's" maintenance workers and one of the gardeners and another unidentified man did the heaving. The minute this group disbanded, the waterfall began! So the backdrop to the piano technician's tuning was the pitter-patter of raindrops!

Maybe the secret to getting more water in these here parts is just to schedule some event that would come to a complete halt if it were to rain. And more rain is really needed. Water is a big issue here. The country is full of rivers. The north gets plenty of rain. But still, a huge percentage of people don't have water. Well, technically, many here in the capital city have the ability to have running water in their homes. There just isn't any. All during dry season, you see big huge water trucks pulling into gated driveways, filling up the water tanks that are there specifically to fill the void. All during dry season, you also see 6, 7, 8 year-old boys and girls carrying the ubiquitous school-bus-yellow water barrels with red tops on their heads, walking and walking and walking in search of water. Often, they return home empty-barrelled. The water bill collector comes, however, even when the water doesn't.

Thursday, we caught our driver filling up these plastic yellow containers using the hose, that the gardener left for him, attached to the spigot in the back of our house. Six of them to be exact. Clearly, Orchid Gardens is one of those gated drives that opens its doors to the large water trucks! We didn't stop him. But once his own car was loaded up, I had to go outside and tell him that he really shouldn't do that, lest someone see him and cause an uproar. And then he made use of the new word I taught him the other day: to sneak! "I'd better sneak out here, then!!" And off he went. Who could blame him, really? When he sees the insane amount of water that the gardeners use every day keeping the grass in the compound green and the flowers blooming at the same time that local Ghanaians can't even find water to buy to keep themselves or their homes clean. And to think that we get upset when the water pressure is low.

From Little Acorns Grow Tall Oaks

Chloe started "school" on Tuesday, April 17. She's not even 2...does it really count as SCHOOL? I honestly hadn't ever considered sending her, but three months without our container -- which contained all the things that were intended to enrich Chloe's life here in Ghana -- was enough to get me touring nurseries, creches and daycare facilities!

There are a surprising number of these establishments here, but then you rule out all those that aren't up to international standards. And then those that have a minimum age of 3. And then, of course, all the French ones (because they are extremely snooty about their French-ness)! And then the British ones (because even for the 18-month set they are extremely regimented)...and what you're left with is Montessori and Montessori-hybrid. Which was just fine with me.

This is what brought us to LATOIS -- Little Acorns Tall Oaks International School. Could the name be any worse? Little Acorns is the name of the program for the pre-school set. Tall Oaks is the primary and secondary school. It seems as if all the families with toddlers and preschoolers in Orchid Gardens send them to this school, so we figured it couldn't be all bad. And it's less than a 5 minute drive away.

Every morning at 7:50 AM, I pack Chloe into her car seat with a bag which contains a change of clothes, extra diapers, wipes, a snack, and a drink cup and off we go. On the days that we are running late, the entry gate is locked and we have to go the departure gate. Luckily, there is absolutely no shame in this. We enter school through the main entrance (pictured above), say hello to all the faculty that are hanging around the lobby, and, of course, to the fish in the tank. Then we go down the hall to the very end where we find the Buttercup Nursery. Chloe takes one look at all the kids that are already there and then mommy (that would be me) becomes invisible.

There are 3 teachers, and Chloe seems to like all of them. One whisks her out of my arms and immediately starts engaging her. Another relieves me of the diaper bag. And I then watch, completely unnoticed, as Chloe becomes her independent, social self. There are about 12 kids, 6 of which are from Orchid Gardens. They are from Ghana, Denmark, Spain, England, Lebanon, Cameroon, and who knows where else. Chloe is the only American. Thobian and Carmen, both kids from our neighborhood, cry every single day at drop off. So, I count my blessings and rush out before my luck changes.

The first couple of days, when I would pick Chloe up at noon, she would be very excited to see me. Those days are long gone. She's quite content there, playing with the toys, reading the books, singing songs, going to the music room, playing outside in the playground, coloring, etc. She often has no idea I am even there, until one of the other kids tells her. Sometimes I get a smile. More frequently just an acknowledgment that I am there and then she returns to whatever task was at hand. But then there is this little boy, whose name I don't know, who has taken a liking to me. He's always so affectionate and wants to be picked up. Chloe catches a glimpse of this, gets quite jealous and comes running over to me! Relief!